Why Is My Car Shaking? Common Causes, Based on When It Happens

 A car that shakes is hard to ignore, and it's one of the things drivers search for most. The tricky part is that "shaking" can come from the tires, the brakes, the suspension or the engine. A better question than "why is my car shaking?" is "when is my car shaking?" The answer points you in the right direction.

It shakes at higher speeds

If the steering wheel or the seat vibrates mainly at higher speeds, the most common cause is the wheels. A tire that's out of balance, a bent rim, a tire with a bulge, or uneven wear can all do it. A tire shop can balance the wheels and check them. Also check the tire pressure, and look at each tire for bulges or cuts.

It shakes when you brake

A shaking steering wheel or a pulsing pedal when braking often points to uneven brake discs, worn pads, or a sticking brake caliper. Don't leave this one. Brakes are a safety system, so have them inspected. If you also notice a burning smell after driving, that can be a sign of a caliper that's sticking.

It shakes at idle or when accelerating

A rough, shaking engine can be a misfire. Common causes are worn spark plugs, a weak ignition coil, a fuel or air problem, or worn engine mounts that no longer hold the engine firmly. If the check engine light comes on, especially if it's flashing, slow down and get it checked quickly, because a misfire can damage other parts.

It shakes over bumps or pulls to one side

Worn suspension or steering parts, such as joints, bushings or shock absorbers, can cause shaking, clunks and a car that doesn't feel steady. A bad wheel alignment can make the car pull to one side and wear the tires unevenly.

What to do next

1. Note exactly when it happens: speed, braking, idling, turning.
2. Check the tire pressure and look at the tires.
3. Check for warning lights on the dashboard.
4. Get a proper diagnosis from a garage. Describe what you noticed.

Stop driving and get help if the shaking comes with overheating, a flashing check engine light, a very strong burning smell, or a steering wheel that feels loose. Shaking is the car telling you something. It's better to listen early.

General information only. Check your owner's manual, and ask a qualified mechanic if you're not sure.

How to Read a Tire Sidewall: What 205/55 R16 Means

 The numbers on the side of a tire look like a secret code, but they tell you the size, the load it can carry, the speed it's made for, and even how old it is. Once you can read them, buying the right tire is much easier.

The numbers on the sidewall tell you more than you think.

Reading the size

Take a tire marked 205/55 R16 91V:

• 205 is the width of the tire in millimetres.
• 55 is the height of the side wall as a percentage of the width.
• R means radial construction, which is standard on most cars.
• 16 is the wheel (rim) diameter in inches.
• 91 is the load index, a code for how much weight the tire can carry. You can look it up in a chart.
• V is the speed rating, the top speed the tire is designed for.

How old is your tire?

Look for the letters DOT, followed by a code. The last four digits show when the tire was made: the first two are the week and the last two are the year. For example, 2423 means week 24 of 2023. Rubber ages even when a tire isn't used much, so an old tire with plenty of tread can still be unsafe. Many tire makers suggest having older tires inspected regularly and replacing them after about ten years, whatever the tread looks like. Check your manual and ask your tire shop.

Other marks you may see

M+S or a mountain with a snowflake means the tire is made for winter conditions. XL or "reinforced" means a higher load rating. Electric cars sometimes need tires with special markings, so follow the manual.

Buying the right tire

Use the size shown on the sticker in the door frame or in your owner's manual, not just whatever is on the car now, because a previous owner may have changed it. Keep the same size, load index and speed rating unless your manual allows something else. And don't mix very different tires on the same axle.

Also, the pressure to use is on the door sticker or in the manual. The number on the sidewall is only the maximum.

General information only. Check your owner's manual, and ask a qualified mechanic if you're not sure.

Regenerative Braking Explained: How Electric and Hybrid Cars Recover Energy

 Hybrid and electric cars have a clever trick: they turn braking into charging. Instead of wasting the energy of a moving car as heat, they send some of it back to the battery. It's called regenerative braking, and it changes how these cars feel to drive.

In a hybrid or an electric car, slowing down also charges the battery.

How it works

When you lift your foot off the accelerator, or press the brake pedal gently, the electric motor works in reverse, as a generator. That slows the car down and sends energy to the battery. The normal friction brakes (pads and discs) are still there, and they take over for harder stops and for the last bit of slowing down.

Why it matters

It helps the car use less energy, especially in city traffic with lots of stopping and starting. It also means the brake pads and discs are used less, so they often last longer than in a normal car.

One-pedal driving

Some electric cars slow down quite strongly as soon as you lift off the accelerator, so you can drive most of the time without touching the brake pedal. Many cars let you change how strong this is in the settings. It takes a day or two to get used to it. And in most cars, the brake lights come on when the car slows down this way, so the drivers behind you can see it.

When it's weaker

Regenerative braking doesn't always work the same. It can be weaker when the battery is almost full, because the energy has nowhere to go, when the battery is very cold, and at very low speeds. You may notice the car slows down less than usual, and the normal brakes do more of the work. So always leave a safe distance, and don't count on the same slowing down every time.

On a slippery road, a strong setting can feel abrupt. If your car lets you, choose a lower setting in the rain or on ice, and drive smoothly.

Looking after the brakes

Because the friction brakes are used less, they can rust or stick. Have them checked regularly, as your manual says, and don't skip brake fluid changes. If you notice a noise, a vibration or a longer stopping distance, get it looked at.

General information only. Electric and hybrid cars vary a lot, so follow your owner's manual and leave high-voltage work to a qualified technician.

Windshield Wipers: When to Replace Them and How to Make Them Last

 Windshield wipers are easy to forget, until the first heavy rain of the season, when you suddenly can't see. Poor visibility is a real safety risk, and replacing wipers costs very little. Here's how to know when it's time.

Clear glass matters most when the weather turns bad.

Signs your wipers need replacing

Streaks or smears across the glass. A hazy film after each wipe. Skipping or chattering across the windscreen. Squeaking. Rubber that looks cracked, split or hard, or a bent frame that doesn't touch the glass evenly. If you notice any of these, don't wait for a storm.

How to make them last longer

• Clean the blades and the glass from time to time with washer fluid or soapy water and a soft cloth. Dirt on the blade is a common cause of streaks.
• Keep the washer fluid topped up, and use it instead of wiping dry glass. Wipers dragging over dry glass wear out fast.
• In hot weather, park in the shade when you can. Heat hardens the rubber.
• Clear ice and frost with a scraper before you switch the wipers on, and make sure they're not frozen to the glass.
• Check them before the rainy season starts. Many drivers replace them about once a year, depending on the climate.

How to replace them

1. Check the right size in your manual or on the packaging. The driver's side, the passenger's side and the rear wiper can all be different.
2. Lift the wiper arm away from the glass until it stays up.
3. Find the small clip or tab where the blade joins the arm, press it, and slide the old blade off.
4. Slide the new blade on until it clicks into place.
5. Lower the arm gently. Don't let it snap back onto the glass, because it can crack the windscreen.

One more thing

Use proper washer fluid, not plain water, especially in cold weather, when plain water can freeze. And if a blade is torn or the arm is bent, change it right away. The few minutes it takes can make a big difference when it's raining hard.

General information only. Check your owner's manual, and ask a qualified mechanic if you're not sure.

Engine Coolant Explained: What It Does and How to Check It

 Most drivers know that the engine needs coolant, but few know what it really does. It's not just there to stop the engine boiling over in summer. It also protects it from freezing, from rust and from damage inside the cooling system. Checking it takes two minutes.

A quick look at the coolant level takes two minutes.

What coolant does

Coolant (also called antifreeze) carries heat away from the engine to the radiator. It also stops the liquid freezing in cold weather, protects metal parts from corrosion, and helps keep the water pump working smoothly. Old coolant slowly loses these protections, which is why it needs changing.

How to check the level

1. Park on level ground and let the engine cool down completely.
2. Find the coolant reservoir under the bonnet. It's a see-through container with MIN and MAX marks. Your manual shows where it is.
3. Check that the level is between MIN and MAX.
4. If it's low, top up with the type of coolant your manual specifies, and keep an eye on it. A level that keeps dropping points to a leak.

The one rule that matters: never open the radiator cap or the coolant cap while the engine is hot. The system is under pressure, and hot liquid can cause serious burns.

Don't mix types

Coolant comes in different colours, such as green, orange, pink or blue, but the colour alone doesn't tell you which type your car needs. Different types can react badly when mixed, and the result can clog the system. Use what the manual says. Many coolants are sold ready mixed, and concentrates need to be mixed with distilled water as the label says.

Signs of trouble

A temperature gauge that climbs, a sweet smell, a puddle under the car, white smoke from the exhaust, a heater that doesn't get warm, or a low coolant warning. If you notice any of these, don't ignore them. Coolant is toxic to people and pets, so clean up any spill and keep containers closed. Take old coolant to a garage or a recycling point.

Hybrid and electric cars

Many have separate cooling circuits for the battery and the electronics, sometimes with their own coolant. Don't top those up yourself unless your manual says you can. Leave that to a technician.

General information only. Check your owner's manual, and ask a qualified mechanic if you're not sure.

How to Make Your Car Battery Last Longer

 A car battery rarely dies without warning. It usually fades over time, and the car gets harder to start until one morning it won't. How long a battery lasts depends on the climate and on how you use the car, and heat is usually harder on it than cold. Here's how to get more out of yours.

A clean, tight connection helps the battery do its job.

Signs the battery is getting weak

The engine cranks slowly, the headlights look dim when you start, a battery warning light comes on, or you hear a fast clicking when you turn the key. Other signs are strange electrical behaviour, white or green crust on the terminals, or a battery case that looks swollen. If you see a swollen or leaking battery, don't touch it, and get it checked.

Habits that help

1. Don't rely only on very short trips. Starting the engine uses a lot of energy, and a short drive doesn't give the alternator time to put it back. Take a longer drive now and then.
2. Switch off the lights, the radio and any chargers before you turn off the engine, and don't sit with the engine off and the electronics on.
3. Keep the terminals clean and tight. If there's crust on them, switch the engine off, wear gloves and eye protection, and clean it off with a brush and a mix of baking soda and water. Disconnect the negative (-) clamp first, and reconnect it last. If you're not comfortable doing it, ask a garage.
4. Park in the shade when you can. Heat shortens battery life, and a battery that isn't held firmly in place can be damaged by vibration.
5. If the car will sit for weeks, use a battery maintainer (a smart trickle charger), or start it and drive it for a while from time to time.
6. Have the battery tested once a year, especially when it's a few years old. Many garages do a quick test for little or nothing.

Hybrid and electric cars

They still have a normal 12-volt battery, and when it fails the car can refuse to start or "wake up", even if the big battery is fine. The warning signs are similar. Leave anything that involves the high-voltage system to a qualified technician.

When it's time to replace it

Use the type and size your manual calls for. Some cars with a start-stop system need a specific kind of battery (such as AGM or EFB). And take the old one to a shop or a recycling point. Never throw a car battery in the bin.

General information only. Check your owner's manual, and ask a qualified mechanic if you're not sure.

How to Charge an Electric Car at Home: The Basics

 Most electric car owners charge at home, usually overnight. It's convenient, and often cheaper than public charging. If you're new to electric cars, here are the basics.

Home charging is convenient, as long as the setup is safe.

Three ways to charge

A standard household socket is the slowest option. It can be fine for a car that drives short distances every day, but it can take a very long time to fill a battery.

A home wall charger (a wallbox) is faster and made for the job. It's the most popular choice for home charging, and it needs to be installed by a qualified electrician.

A public fast charger is much faster, and meant for trips or emergencies, not for every day.

What you need at home

1. The charging cable that matches your car and your charger. Use the one supplied by the maker, or a quality cable approved for your car.
2. A safe electrical supply. Ask an electrician to check that your wiring and your main panel can handle hours of charging at a steady load.
3. A dedicated circuit, if the electrician recommends one, with the right protection devices.
4. A good spot, close to the car's charging port and protected from direct rain and knocks.

How to charge

1. Park so the cable reaches the charging port without being stretched.
2. Open the charging port and push the connector in until it clicks.
3. Check that the car or the app shows that charging has started.
4. When you're done, stop the charge from the car or the app, then unplug.
5. Store the cable off the ground so nobody drives over it.

Smart habits

Set a charge limit and a schedule in the car or the app. Many people charge at night, when electricity can be cheaper in some places. And for daily use, a slower charge is gentler on the battery than fast charging.

Safety first: don't use extension cords, multi-plug adapters or damaged cables for charging, because they can overheat. Keep connectors clean and dry, and never touch a cable that's cracked or burnt. Let a qualified electrician install any wall charger.

Before you buy a car, check whether your parking space has a safe power supply nearby. It can change which car and which charger you choose.

General information only. Electric and hybrid cars vary a lot, so follow your owner's manual and leave high-voltage work to a qualified technician.